Last year, I had a corporate career. A house. A respectable LinkedIn profile. Then life changed, and I realised I didn’t actually know what I wanted the next chapter of my life to look like. And so, I decided that if I was going to start again, I might as well start somewhere sunny.
I went from being a solicitor with a mortgage and a relatively respectable grasp on adulthood, to living out of a backpack and sharing a bedroom with seven strangers. The transition was surprisingly seamless.
There was something mildly humbling about backpacking in my later twenties. I was surrounded by people at the very beginning of their adult lives, while I was figuring out how to start mine again.
I shared hostel dorms with complete strangers, accidentally became the older sister of every 21 year old backpacker, made plans with people I’d known for approximately five minutes and got surprisingly comfortable with not knowing what was happening next.
The east coast gave me some of the best memories of my life. It also gave me questionable tan lines, approximately 38 versions of the same hostel conversation and a newfound appreciation for privacy curtains.
Some places completely stole my heart.
Some I wouldn’t rush back to.
And some of my favourite memories had very little to do with where I was and everything to do with who I was with.
Somewhere between the bunk beds and beaches, I was discovering a new version of myself. Along side a whole new dictionary used by Gen Z.
A slightly unfiltered guide to Australia’s east coast: A month of heat, hostels, and hippies
This isn’t a list of ‘must-sees’.
It’s an honest account of where I stayed, what I did, what I loved and what I probably wouldn’t bother doing again. Because when you’ve sold your house, moved to the other side of the world and carrying your entire life in a backpack, you quickly learn that time and money are too precious to waste.
So, if you’re looking for a perfectly curated travel guide, this isn’t it.
This is the good, the bad, the beautiful and the occasionally chaotic reality of travelling Australia’s east coast from someone who arrived with a backpack, a camera and absolutely no idea what she was doing.
Cairns
I could have skipped Cairns.
Where I stayed:
I stayed at Little Drifter, right in the heart of Cairns. It was clean, modern and well furnished, and I was in an eight bed mixed dorm. The beds had privacy curtains, which was something I later realised I’d taken for granted; after sleeping in enough open plan dorms to know everyone’s bedtime routine, those curtains would become something I genuinely mourned.
The hostel wasn’t particularly social. The communal areas were pretty quiet, so making friends wasn’t especially easy which, in hindsight, I probably could have anticipated had I read the reviews rather than simply looking at the photos.
Whilst both of my activities in Cairns were great experiences, the city itself didn’t do much for me. Personally, I found the place a little dull and dirty. Unless you have access to a car and are planning to use Cairns as a base for exploring, I wouldn’t personally spend too long here.
What I did:
The Great Barrier Reef
My first activity was snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef with Silverswift Barrier Reef Cruises. It was a standard day trip operator open to everyone, rather than a tour specifically aimed at backpackers, so I found it a little harder to naturally strike up conversations. That said, spending eight hours on a boat means you eventually start noticing who else is travelling alone. You gravitate towards each other, and before you know it, you’ve made a temporary friend-ship (excuse the pun).
The snorkelling itself was beautiful, of course, it’s the Great Barrier Reef. But personally, I found the overall experience a little underwhelming. If you’re travelling the east coast and planning to visit the Whitsundays, I’d personally save your money and snorkel there instead.
The Daintree Rainforest
My second activity in Cairns was a day trip to the Daintree Rainforest with Uncle Brian’s Cape Tribulation Tours. This was a completely different experience, and one I would highly recommend. The tour has some of the best reviews and they live up to their reputation.
There was around fifteen of us on the tour. A mix of solo travellers and couples, all roughly around the same age. Within minutes, strangers were chatting like they’d known each other for weeks. Which, as a solo traveller arriving in Australia and quietly hoping I hadn’t made (another) terrible life decision, was exactly what I needed.
We stopped at Thornton Beach on the way, and somehow, we were the only people there. Just fifteen of us, an empty beach, tropical rainforest and absolutely no reason whatsoever to check my phone. It was one of those moments where you stop taking photos for a second because you’re too busy looking at what’s actually in front of you.
And yes, obviously I then took about 47 photos.
Magnetic Island
“Maggie” is a must do!
Where I stayed:
For my first night on Maggie, I stayed at Bounce Hostel on the north side of the island, around a five minute walk from Horseshoe Bay. I then moved to Nomads on the south side, where I stayed for another two nights. The eight bed dorms at Nomads were these cute, triangular-shaped huts right on the beachfront.
The only catch? No privacy curtains.
Having had them in Cairns, I suddenly realised I’d become quite attached to my little fabric barrier between me and the rest of the dorm. But after a while, you stop caring. Or perhaps you just become so accustomed to hostel life that your standards quietly disappear.
Luckily, the hostel itself more than made up for it. After the slightly antisocial start I had in Cairns, this was exactly the kind of hostel atmosphere I’d been hoping for.
What I did:
Magnetic Island is famous for its koalas and wallabies, so naturally, I set off expecting to come face-to-face with at least 50 koalas. However, despite spending the morning walking the Forts Walk (a 4km return trail that takes around 2 hours) in nearly 40 degree sweltering heat, there wasn’t a koala in sight. Not one.
The wallabies, however, were much more cooperative. You can spot wild rock wallabies around the Nelly Bay helipad area, near the main ferry terminal. I sat down on the grass with some carrots and, eventually, became surrounded by these incredibly cute little creatures. They were adorable. And far more reliable than the koalas.
Airlie Beach & Whitsundays boat trip
Sailboats, sunsets and skydives
Head in the clouds (literally)
Where I stayed:
I stayed at Nomads in Airlie Beach for one night before my two day Whitsundays sailing trip, then returned for another two nights afterwards.
Airlie itself is small, but the main strip is busy. The place felt like one giant backpacker waiting room for the Whitsundays. You could barely walk five minutes without hearing someone discussing which boat they were on, where they were staying or whether they had managed to get a decent cabin.
What I did:
Two days sailing the Whitsundays
I was booked onto the SV Summer Jo for a two day sailing trip around the Whitsundays. Happy Travels had given me three boat options, ranging from full-send party boat to luxury floating hotel. I went somewhere in the middle.
I wanted a few drinks, good music, beautiful sunsets and people to actually talk to. I didn’t want to spend two days at sea with a hangover surrounded by 18-year-olds filmimg tik toks. Equally, I wasn’t looking to spend the trip quietly sipping on herbal tea. I wanted the fun, just with a little less chaos.
This was where I finally got the Great Barrier Reef experience I’d been hoping for. The days were spent sailing, snorkelling and sunbathing.
The cabins however, were microscopic, so most people ended up sleeping on deck. You could grab a hammock or a beanbag, wrap yourself in a blanket and sleep underneath the stars. It was stunning. Waking up to a view of the sea and the sunrise was surreal.
Seeing the Whitsundays from above
From sea to sky, my next adventure was a helicopter flight over Whitehaven Beach, Hill Inlet, the Great Barrier Reef and Heart Reef. If you want to appreciate the sheer scale of the Whitsundays, seeing them from above is an absolute must. The 60 minute scenic flight was breathtaking. There are some places you photograph because you want to remember them. And then there are places where you put your camera down because, for a moment, you just want to look. This was one of those places.
Freefalling
And for my final mode of transport… Freefalling. My tandem skydive was probably one of the scariest things I’ve ever done (apart from moving to the other side of the world on my own). I did mine through SKYDIVE Australia. They were quick to put me at ease, which I definitely appreciated when I was about to voluntarily throw myself out of a perfectly functioning plane. If you’re not afraid of a little adrenaline, I would absolutely recommend it.
Noosa & K’gari
Fun, fun and more fun on Fraser Island
Where I stayed:
I stayed at Nomads in Noosa for one night before and one night after my K’gari trip. Pretty much everyone in the hostel was either heading out on the same trip the next morning or had just returned from it. So, within minutes, you already had something to talk about.
What I did:
K’gari: Island Expeditions
The Island Expeditions camping trip on Fraser Island was easily my favourite trip of the entire east coast. Eight people. Three days. One 4WD. And absolutely no escape from each other’s music taste. We took turns driving, cooking lunch and dinner, washing up and helping set up camp, essentially becoming a very small, slightly dysfunctional family. Everyone ate together, played games and once the sun went down, headed to the beach to stargaze and watch shooting stars.
My group unexpectedly became part of my wider travel story. We continued bumping into each other along the east coast, meeting up again in Byron Bay at Christmas and Sydney for New Years Eve.
Kangarooms Noosa Everglades
I spent one night at Kangarooms Noosa Everglades. The advertising promises the possibility of seeing kangaroos hopping along the beach at sunrise. Sadly, on my visit, they didn’t get the memo. The campsite itself, however, was absolutely full of them. So, whilst I may not have got my cinematic sunrise beach moment, I definitely got my fill of kangaroos.
Brisbane
Where I stayed:
I stayed at BUNK for my two nights in Brisbane.
The hostel was a good base for exploring the city. However, the hostel wasn’t very social, not for my short stop over anyway.
What I did:
Brisbane wasn’t bad. It just wasn’t for me.
I know plenty of people absolutely love the city, but personally, the busy atmosphere isn’t really my thing. After spending so much time surrounded by beaches, islands, rainforests and open space, I think I was craving something a little further away from city life.
I didn’t pack my two days with activities or feel the need to tick off every tourist attraction. I wandered around, took in a little of the city and, if I’m honest, mostly used Brisbane as a stopover before continuing further south.
I think that’s one of the most important things I’ve learnt from travelling. You don’t have to love somewhere just because everyone else does. Some places become the highlights of your trip. Some are simply a stop along the way. And that’s okay.
Byron Bay
A bubble that never burst.
Where I stayed:
Wake Up!
I stayed at Wake Up! in Byron Bay, which was probably one of my favourite hostels of the whole trip. There were activities happening every day, which made it really easy to meet people. Whether it was doing one of the free morning yoga classes, the pub quiz or simply grabbing a drink with people you’d met that morning around the pool, there was always something going on.
Drifter
I also stayed at Drifter in Byron Bay. It was super modern and had a great location, making it easy to get around and explore. My only complaint was the kitchen. It was tiny. When an entire hostel is trying to cook dinner at roughly the same time, finding a spare chopping board, let alone a bit of counter space, becomes a competitive sport.
What I did:
Byron was one of the few places where I didn’t feel like I needed to constantly be doing something to make the most of my time there. I could spend the morning at the beach, wander around the markets, grab a coffee, meet someone new and somehow find myself sitting on the sand watching the sunset by the end of the day. No itinerary. No plans. Just seeing where the day took me.
There is plenty to do in Byron. You can learn to surf. Go to the markets. See live music. Explore the beaches. Find a yoga class. Eat good food. Drink great coffee. Or walk to watch the sunrise and/or sunset from the lighthouse – I know I said this isn’t a list of ‘must-sees’… but this one you have to do!
One of my favourite unofficial Byron traditions was grabbing some sushi and a few cold beers, heading down to the beach for sunset and watching some barefoot, slightly hippy-looking guy playing guitar whilst everyone danced along.
It was everything I wanted Austrlia to be, and more.
Gold Coast
Surfers, yes. Paradise, not so much.
Where I stayed:
I stayed at Tequila Sunrise in Surfers Paradise. It was a 130 bed hostel dorm in the heart of the Gold Coast. Yes. 130 beds.
After weeks of beaches, islands, rainforest and relatively low-rise coastal towns, suddenly there were skyscrapers, neon lights, huge hotels and enough bars and restaurants to make me wonder if I’d accidentally taken a wrong turn and ended up in Benidorm.
What I did:
It was busy, loud and unapologetically touristy. Was it my favourite place on the east coast? No. Did I have a good time? Yes.
And perhaps that’s an important distinction. Travelling isn’t about falling in love with every destination. Sometimes somewhere can be completely not your vibe and still make for a good chapter.
Sydney
The final chapter
Where I stayed:
I stayed at The Pacific House for a few nights in Sydney over New Years. It felt slightly more grown-up than some of the backpacker hostels I’d stayed in along the east coast, which, by this point, I wasn’t complaining about.
What I did:
New Years Eve Fireworks
After a month of travelling down the east coast, I finally arrived in Sydney. This was the destination I’d been working towards from the moment I landed in Cairns. Not just because Sydney is one of Australia’s most iconic cities, but because I had planned my entire east coast adventure around being there for the New Year’s Eve fireworks.
It was a pretty spectacular way to end my first month of solo travelling.
But I’ll be honest… Sydney didn’t steal my heart.
I think the timing played a huge part. Everything was so busy and touristy that it was difficult to get a real feel for the city. After weeks of smaller coastal towns, islands and places where you could walk barefoot into a café without anyone batting an eyelid, Sydney was hard to settle into.
Would I go back? Absolutely. I’d like to see Sydney when it’s not hosting one of the worlds biggest New Year’s Eve celebrations, and preferably when I don’t have to queue for twenty minutes to walk approximately seven metres.
My East Coast Highlights
I had arrived in Australia with no real plan. And somehow, a month later, I’d made it all the way down the east coast, alone. I snorkelled the Great Barrier Reef, sailed through the Whitsundays, jumped out of a plane, camped on K’gari and made friends from all over the world.
Most importantly, I’d learnt that travelling alone doesn’t mean being lonely. In fact, sometimes it means the opposite. You just have to be brave enough to walk into a room where you don’t know anyone. To sit down next to a stranger. To start a conversation with the person next to you in the hostel. But those small moments become the beginning of friendships, adventures and memories you never could have planned. Which, I suppose, is the whole point.
I left the east coast with a new chapter written.
And a very full camera roll.
LuLu Land 
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